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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.