Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
